Showing posts with label Pets/Livestock. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Pets/Livestock. Show all posts

Wednesday, June 27, 2012

Goat Milk Quality and Flavor



Awesome share by:
Great Goat  Information... SRN  
 
Milk Quality and Flavor
As printed in the Tri-County Goat Newsletter, by Tom Shultz, editor. A publication of the University of California Cooperative Extension, Tulare County.

There are several factors that can affect both milk quality and flavor. Flavors in goat milk are often related to what the lactating doe eats. However, importance of corral and milking parlor hygiene, proper milking procedures and equipment maintenance, plus mastitis control and antibiotic residues, all can affect flavor and subsequent quality.
Percentages of off-flavors in milk generally are 80% feed related, 5% due to oxidation, 5% rancidity, 3% from chemical residues, 3% related to hygiene, and 4% from other causes. Some feed-related flavors are not  objectionable, while the others mentioned are usually offensive. Sometimes milk is said to have an off flavor because it is interrelated with an odd smell and/or texture.

To reduce feed flavors in milk, eliminate moldy feeds and offer suspected feeds either soon after milking or at least 4 to 5 hours before the next milking time. Objectionable flavors from some feeds pass from the rumen and digestive tract, via blood, into the udder and milk. Odors from feedstuffs are breathed by the doe and pass from the lung, via the bloodstream, to the udder and into milk. Controlling intake of questionable feeds is not always easy, and the amount of time between feeding and milking sometimes needs some experimentation. The following lists give examples of various feedstuffs for goats.
 
Little or No Feed Flavor With  Normal Amounts
Beet tops and pulp
Carrots and green peas
Corn, barley and oats
Soybeans and cottonseed
Potatoes and pumpkins
Safflower and sunflower
Citrus and coconut
Most grasses and hay
 
 
Off-Flavor If Fed Within 5 Hrs. of Next Milking
Alfalfa (green, hay or silage)
Soybeans or corn silage
Rye and rape
Turnips, cabbage, kale
Green barley
Sweet clover (green, hay or silage)
 
 
Common Weeds and Milk Off-Flavors
Wild garlic and onions Mustard, marigold, flax
Chamomile and fennel
Daisy, cress and yarrow
Snake, sneeze and rag
Pepper, bitter and worts
Cocklebur and buckthorn
Wild lettuce and carrot
Oxidized flavor is characterized by a metallic or cardboard carton taste sensation. It is most commonly caused by milk coming in contact with copper surfaces, or alloys containing copper, in the milk handling system. Consequently, stainless steel and glass are the materials of choice. Plastic and rubber are acceptable but harder to keep clean. Feed does not cause oxidized flavor, but a ration with a large proportion of alfalfa hay can predispose the milk to oxidation. Prolonged exposure of milk to light and ultraviolet rays may also result in oxidation.
Rancidity is characterized by a bitter, soap-like taste. To reduce potential rancidity, milk collection systems should have hermetically sealed joints. Otherwise, air injections can cause foaming that can lead to rancidity. Also, excessive "T" joints and elbows in the system can cause the problem. Increasing refrigeration capacity and/or the speed of cooling and maintaining cool temperature in the milk helps to reduce the problem. High bacteria numbers can aggravate the problem.

Chemical flavors in the milk often have a medicinal, sometimes "minty" taste. Prevention is best accomplished by following label instructions of disinfectants and cleaning agents used in sanitizing the milking system. This concerns both amount of sanitizer and duration of time it is used. Also, care is needed to properly clean and rinse equipment and to avoid chemical agent contact with milking equipment during the milking.
General hygiene in corrals, loafing barns, and the milking area can affect the flavor and quality of the milk.

This can occur through contact contamination of sediments on the udder, in milking equipment, and milk. Also, tests have shown that flavors can be transmitted from the environment to the udder within 15 minutes, by way of the respiratory tract. Goat inhaling of partially digested feed odors has also been reported as a possible cause of "goaty" milk flavor.

Another common cause of undesirable milk flavor is mastitis. This is mainly from the effect of mastitis on an increased salt and decreased sugar content in milk. Sometimes an insipid, flat, or watery taste can occur, or both salty and watery tastes can occur at the same time. Mastitis effects on milk flavor and the environmental hygiene situation have both been indicated as causes of "unclean" and/or "goaty" taste in milk.

Maintaining an appealing flavor in goat milk is a complex issue. An acceptable flavor to one consumer may not be acceptable to another. Likewise, some "off-flavors" are considered normal to persons that are used to a given smell and taste. The saying that dilution is the solution can only help to a limited point.  Causes of objectionable flavors are cause for alarm if there is an increasing group of unhappy consumers.

  GOATS: 
Serious Goat Stuff
Goat Meds & Equip
Copper Deficiency
Udder Nonsense
Easy Goat Cheese
California Chevre
Trivia From History
I Love Milk

Wednesday, June 20, 2012

Got Goat’s Milk?

Great share by: Stone Cottage Farm

Goat at Chaffin Family Orchard
http://nourishingourchildren.wordpress.com/2012/06/11/got-goat-milk/

Goats are among the earliest domesticated animals.

65%-72% of the world’s population drinks goat’s milk.  In many countries in the world, goat’s milk is preferred to cow’s milk.  Goats are naturally immune to diseases, such as tuberculosis, and are used in some countries to actually cure tuberculosis because of their inherent antibodies. India, Bangladesh and the Sudan are large producers. Even in the United States, the goat is gaining popularity. Goats eat less and occupy less grazing space than cows, and in some families the backyard goat supplies milk for family needs.
What does goat’s milk give you that cow’s milk doesn’t? Goat’s milk is believed to be more easily digestible and less allergenic than cow’s milk.
Goats at Chaffin Family Orchards
According to the Journal of American Medicine, “Goat’s milk is the most complete food known.” It contains vitamins, minerals, electrolytes, trace elements, enzymes, protein, and fatty acids that are utilized by your body with ease.  In fact, your body can digest goat’s milk in just 20 minutes.  It takes 2-3 hours to digest cow’s milk. It contains relatively high levels of tryptophan, calcium, Vitamin D, phosphorus, Vitamin B2, protein, and potassium.
Goat at Chaffin Family Orchards
Excerpt from “The Maker’s Diet” by Jordan S. Rubin. ’You shall have enough goats’ milk for your food, for the food of your household, and the nourishment of your maidservants’ (Proverbs 27:27).
The milk consumed in biblical times differed much from the milk we consume today. The milk of the Bible came from cows and goats and was consumed straight from the animal (it was not pasteurized or homogenized), or it was immediately fermented. These ‘live’ foods provide excellent health benefits in contrast to today’s pasteurized, homogenized, often skimmed and ‘refortified’ milk, which is not only less nutritious but also can be potentially harmful and a major cause of allergies and even heart disease. (pg 147)
Goats at Chaffin Family Orchards
Dr. Sears disassembles goat’s milk, nutrient-by-nutrient, to see how it compares with cow’s milk.

Different fat. Goat’s milk contains around ten grams of fat per eight ounces compared to 8 to 9 grams in whole cow’s milk, and it’s much easier to find lowfat and non-fat varieties of cow’s milk than it is to purchase lowfat goat’s milk. Unlike cow’s milk, goat’s milk does not contain agglutinin. As a result, the fat globules in goat’s milk do not cluster together, making them easier to digest. Like cow’s milk, goat’s milk is low in essential fatty acids, because goats also have EFA-destroying bacteria in their ruminant stomachs. Yet, goat milk is reported to contain more of the essential fatty acids linoleic and arachnodonic acids, in addition to a higher proportion of short-chain and medium-chain fatty acids. These are easier for intestinal enzymes to digest.

Different protein. Goat milk protein forms a softer curd (the term given to the protein clumps that are formed by the action of your stomach acid on the protein), which makes the protein more easily and rapidly digestible. Theoretically, this more rapid transit through the stomach could be an advantage to infants and children who regurgitate cow’s milk easily. Goat’s milk may also have advantages when it comes to allergies. Goat’s milk contains only trace amounts of an allergenic casein protein, alpha-S1, found in cow’s milk. Goat’s milk casein is more similar to human milk, yet cow’s milk and goat’s milk contain similar levels of the other allergenic protein, beta lactoglobulin. Scientific studies have not found a decreased incidence of allergy with goat’s milk, but here is another situation where mothers’ observations and scientific studies are at odds with one another. Some mothers are certain that their child tolerates goat’s milk better than cow’s milk, and mothers are more sensitive to children’s reactions than scientific studies.

Less lactose. Goat’s milk contains slightly lower levels of lactose (4.1 percent versus 4.7 percent in cow’s milk), which may be a small advantage in lactose-intolerant persons.

Different minerals. Although the mineral content of goat’s milk and cow’s milk is generally similar, goat’s milk contains 13 percent more calcium, 25 percent more vitamin B-6, 47 percent more vitamin A, 134 percent more potassium, and three times more niacin. It is also four times higher in copper. Goat’s milk also contains 27 percent more of the antioxidant selenium than cow’s milk. Cow’s milk contains five times as much vitamin B-12 as goat’s milk and ten times as much folic acid (12 mcg. in cow’s milk versus 1 mcg. for goat’s milk per eight ounces with an RDA of 75-100 mcg. for children). The fact that goat’s milk contains less than ten percent of the amount of folic acid contained in cow’s milk means that it must be supplemented with folic acid in order to be adequate as a formula or milk substitute for infants and toddlers, and popular brands of goat’s milk may advertise “supplemented with folic acid” on the carton.
Goat at Chaffin Family Orchards
Goats at Chaffin Family Orchards
Sources
Dr. Sears http://www.askdrsears.com/topics/feeding-infants-toddlers/goat-milk
Cow’s Milk vs. Goat’s Milk http://altmedangel.com/milkcomp.htm
Benefits of Raw http://igreennutrition.com/topics/the-benefits-of-raw-and-fermented-goats-milk-and-cows-milk
Overall Benefits http://www.roseofsharonacres.com/raw_goat_milk_benefits
Photographs captured by Sandrine Hahn earlier this month at Chaffin Family Orchards

Baby chick birth cycle.

Baby chick birth cycle.

Wednesday, June 13, 2012

Chicken FAQ

These are some great answers to Chicken Questions... SRN



FREQUENTLY ASKED QUESTIONS

-all answers are based on my personal experience, and there may be more than one 'right answer, but I always prefer to just tell you what I do that I find works-
 
Thank You
Fresh Eggs Daily
See Full Article at link below

http://fresh-eggs-daily.blogspot.com/2012/04/fans-chicken-faq.html

Thursday, June 7, 2012

Breakfast of Champion Layers


Look at the difference in these beautiful birds after being on   
"Fresh Eggs Daily" hen recipe!

This article also includes some Great Treat Idea's for your Girls...
and Rooster too! SRN
See the full article HERE

Got Flies?

 Here's an Idea for a DIY Fly Catcher 

 Love this...
Can you ever have enough fly control. SRN
http://fresh-eggs-daily.blogspot.com/2012/06/got-flies-heres-idea-for-diy-fly.html
can show you how to use your 
2 liter bottles for extra protection!



Saturday, May 26, 2012

Caring for your poultry in hot weather...

 Very Helpful share from "Backyard Poultry" SRN

 It's Hot Out There: Caring for Your Poultry in Hot Weather

By Dave Anderson, President
American Poultry Association
As summer approaches, it is a good time to think about protecting our birds from the extreme heat we can expect over the next few months. Heat can have a very detrimental effect on birds. Poultry do not sweat to provide cooling. Instead, they are cooled by blood that flows through the comb and wattles. As the warm blood circulates through the comb and other head appendages, it is cooled and returns to the interior portion of the body. In extreme heat, the head appendages cannot provide enough relief and the bird can die or, at the very least, become unproductive. I have actually witnessed birds suffering from heat stroke and it is not a pretty sight.

Shade and plenty of fresh water are a must in summer. Birds can withstand some very extreme temperatures if they are shielded from the sun and can cool off via the intake of water. In addition, they love to take dust baths and work the cool dirt particles into their feathers. It is amusing to watch birds with access to dirt lie on the ground and develop a hole by ruffling their feathers and digging with their claws. This not only helps keep them cool but also aids in controlling lice and mites and other parasites.

I provide fans for my birds that are housed inside and do not have access to dirt. The fans move the air which results in a cooling process. I also make sure they have fresh, clean water at least twice a day and are not exposed to direct sunlight.

A mix of Fawn Runners, Mallards and Crested Cayugas. Photo courtesy of Anna Micciulla, North Carolina.
Offering waterfowl a place to submerge themselves is not only a nice way to cool down in the summer heat, but is essential to allow them to clean their bills and eyes. Options can be as basic as the kiddie pool above or as fancy as the pond below. Top: A mix of Fawn Runners, Mallards and Crested Cayugas. Photo courtesy of Anna Micciulla, North Carolina. Bottom: Pekin ducks. Photo courtesy of Heidi Mason, Florida.
Pekin ducks. Photo courtesy of Heidi Mason, Florida.
Waterfowl are easy to care for in the summer. If they have shade and a nice pool to jump in they are happy campers. I use the small wading pools that are sold at K-mart and other similar stores. They are easy to empty and clean and provide enough water for birds to submerge themselves. It is always fun to watch them play in the water right after the pools have been filled.

Direct sunlight also has a negative effect on feather condition and can render birds unshowable until they have gone through a molt. This is particularly true if you live in an area that has high heat and low humidity. Low humidity dries out the feathers and they become brittle and more susceptible to breakage. The males of many white breeds and varieties will sunburn readily; especially if they do not possess the "silver white" gene that is often discussed in discussions of poultry genetics. The color on non-white birds such as buff or partridge, will fade rapidly and not return until a molt is complete.

In summary, birds need extra care and attention in summer just as they do in winter. If you want to keep them in production and in show condition, it is imperative that they have continuous access to fresh water and shade and minimum exposure to direct sunlight.

To learn more about the APA please visit their website at www.amerpoultryassn.com or contact the APA secretary, Pat Horstman, via telephone at (724) 729-3459 or e-mail secretaryapa@yahoo.com.




Preparing a Dust Bath

A dust bath can be as simple as an area of the yard where the birds have worn the grass away and only dirt survives, but providing additional ingredients can offer your birds even more pleasure. The most desired materials for a dust bath are sand, dirt and sifted wood ash. Many people feel the wood ash also helps prevent fleas and other bugs from moving in on the birds’ feathers.


Create a frame for the bath contents with wood or use an existing container such as a kiddie pool, kitty litter box, dish pan, or unused sandbox. The depth of the area only has to be deep enough to retain the dirt mixture.


Mix well equal parts dirt, sand and sifted wood ash. The wood ash needs to be sifted to remove small lumps of charcoal that can damage feathers. Place dust box in shaded area, near feeders/Waters.

Providing your birds with a dust bathing area has the (hopefully) added benefit of keeping them out of your garden beds.—Ed.





The Cool Coop

 

Housing can be cooled down by increasing air circulation. Open doors and windows to generate a breeze, or install a fan. Among the least expensive fans is a variable-speed paddle or Casablanca fan. Be sure the coop is properly vented so hot air doesn't get trapped against the ceiling.

Hosing down the outside walls and roof improves cooling through evaporation, as does occasionally misting or fogging the chickens themselves. Take care not to mist so much that the water puddles. Mist only adult chickens and only when the temperature is above 95°F and the relative humidity is below 75 percent. Cooling won't occur if the air is already so humid no more water can evaporate. Mist only when the fan is running or air circulation is otherwise sufficient to dry your birds.

Chickens that have no shade tend to stay indoors, where the air circulation is not as great as it might be in a shady outdoor area. Shade is particularly important for dark-colored birds, which don't reflect sunlight as well as white and light-colored birds and therefore are more susceptible to heat stroke.
—Gail Damerow, "Help Your Chickens Beat the Heat," Backyard Poultry,

Tuesday, May 8, 2012

Goat Birthing Signs


  Thanks for the Great Share  "Our Little Farm"

 Their Goat "Tulip" just gave birth to Triplets!

by Christine

kid
What signs should you look for when you think your doe is about to give birth?  Some breeders know exactly when to expect kids because of a strict breeding regimen and then they mark off the days on the calendar.   Here at my little farm, I let my does breed when they show signs of heat and I let nature take its course.  Once I notice that she no longer shows interest in the buck, I just remove him and then mark the calendar for an “approximate” date.
Here are the most common signs of birthing.  However, I’ve had a couple of goats show absolutely no signs at 7pm yet at 7am they came to eat accompanied by a little one!

These signs are in no particular order:
  • The doe digs a nest, paces, paws at the ground or bedding
  • There is white vaginal discharge, loss of the mucus plug, followed by a streaming of clear, runny mucus
  • Has loose tail ligaments; tail lifts up
  • Appears restless, rises and lies down frequently
  • Eyes are luminous and possibly stargazes
  • Smells the ground and may exhibit the Flehmen reaction (curling of upper lip)
  • Looks behind her, licks or bites her sides
  • Hollows out: from the side, hollow areas above the back leg under the back
  • Elevates her front end by standing on something with her front feet only
  • Bottom of her belly starts getting lower to the ground
  • Squats and urinates frequently
  • Udder begins to fill, teat have a waxy, shiny look or are strutted (pointed slightly out to side rather than downward) – this sign is usually right before birthing – expect kid in 24 hours
  • Vulva becomes flabby & puffy
  • Bleats or “baby talks” to the unborn kid
  • Grinds teeth
  • Breathes faster, pants, yawns
  • Goes off by herself to a “private’ place (that could be out in the rain or cold)
  • Acts out of character: becomes more affectionate or more standoffish
  • Acts uncomfortable and pushes and rolls as the babies get into birthing position
  • Vocalizes or grunts when contractions occur
  • May refuse to eat the morning of delivery (very rare here!
Remember, all goats are individuals and may or may not show any of the above signs.  By knowing your animals, you’ll know when something’s up.

Being present at birthing is a beautiful gift – it’s unlikely that your doe will need help but if she does, just do what comes naturally!  Most times all she needs is to hear your comforting voice, especially on first timers.
I love holding wet babies and having them smell me from the moment they’re cleaned off.  Then surprisingly, watch them jump around only hours after entering this world!  What a joy!

Winter kids have it very hard.  I’ve experienced it first hand this year.  I’ve lost a few to chills (moms kidded outside in the rain when they had access to a warm dry barn – go figure), and at this time in January most of my kids have the sniffles, runny noses and lots of coughing.  It’s very hard to see these little babies not healthy as they should.  Because of this, I will not allow any of my does to breed between May and October (hence avoiding kidding between October & March).  I’ve had to learn the hard way but certainly not as hard as my little goats!

April 28th, 2010
I’ve added this link to a video of a normal birth – no problems or issues.  Brownie is mildly vocal, some can be much louder and others will not make a sound.  You’ll see me grab the little hooves & pull.  Only do this if you feel the kid is stuck but before you do pull, insert your fingers to feel for the little muzzle.  If you don’t feel the nose, do not pull – it could be that the kid is not presenting itself correctly.  However, this is no cause to be alarmed.. not yet.  Most times the contractions will realign the kid and all will go well. 

Watch Video of  Brownie giving birth...

Sheep: The Original Homesteading Livestock

by S.C.
 It is my opinion that survival in a long-term, system-down situation will require a lot more than stored food and water. Survival may boil down to being able to produce food in a sustainable manner with little more than natural resources. Many people seem focused on “bug out” plans, food storage and gardening, with seemingly little thought to the long-term survivability of their plan. While gardens will provide sources of nutrition which are very necessary, the higher calorie and protein needs cannot be satisfied by gardening alone.

Eggs, milk and meat are good sources of protein with caloric benefits that vegetables cannot meet. Many people who share their “plan” seem to think that wild animals can be easily harvested to meet their needs. However, if one adds up all the people who plan to “live off the land,” there is an evident shortfall. I have spent the past several years experimenting with various types of animal product cultivation and I have found that, regardless of the fact I was raised on a farm, I have had a lot to learn. During the past year, I have tried my skills with sheep and found myself in wonderment of the most original homestead animal. In this article I am going to highlight some of my experiences and provide some information about vital reference materials.

Throughout the Bible, analogies and references to sheep were used to illustrate certain behaviors, scenarios and offerings. Jacob was given a “coat of many colors” which was spun from sheep’s wool. Abraham was asked to offer a lamb for sacrifice. Jesus was referred to as the “Lamb of God.” Sheep were so interwoven with early human culture, that their characteristics provided a source of analogy for many of the Bible authors. We have learned through thousands of years of example that history has a tendency to repeat in certain patterns. And throughout ancient history, sheep and humans played a coexistent dependency. I do not think I fully understood many of those Bible analogies until I made the choice a year ago to add sheep to my homesteading experience. Sheep are, for good reason, the original choice of livestock in the history of humanity.


Sheep provide a plethora of resources, while the overhead of raising them can be quite nominal. Wool can be used for spinning into clothing, blankets, rugs and other useful accessories. Sheep’s milk can be used fresh, in cheese or other recipes. Lamb is a delicious delicacy, which is both nutritious and healthful. Sheep can also help control weeds and provide fertilizer, as well as being a great source of entertainment. The understanding sheep and how to keep them alive could prove very useful in a situation where modern conveniences are disturbed.

When I purchased my starter flock of sheep, I was rather naive and I did not do much research. But I found an older gentlemen who was eager to share his knowledge, and wanted to thin down his little suburban flock, due to neighbor complaints. His passion was for the Border Cheviot breed, but his daughter had started their small flock with Suffolk’s which were part of her FFA project. So, I purchased a mix of purebred Border Cheviot with Suffolk. It meant little to me at the time, but I have been learning the importance of the breed. One of the best overall references I have found, and use constantly, is Storey’s Guide to Raising Sheep. This book has a very good section on breeds of sheep.

Selecting the breed of sheep is a rather important step in getting started. There are sheep (referred to as “hair sheep”) who do not need to be sheered, because they shed their wool each year, and their primary purpose is for meat. Right now, wool is not worth very much, so this seems an attractive option. There are sheep, such as the Suffolk, whose selling characteristic is the fast growth of lambs for meat, but their wool is not very desirable for spinning. I have been told, all of the black-faced breeds of sheep are not considered desirable for wool. The white-faced sheep, such as the Border Cheviot, have softer, more desirable wool. The Moreno breed is considered to be the best for wool production. There seem to be three major categories of traits for sheep: Wool, meat and heartiness.

I found the Border Cheviot to be flighty and difficult to deal with at times, but stronger and heartier than some of the other breeds. They are also quite small, so not as good for meat, and sometimes they have a hard time producing enough milk for two lambs. But the ewes have strong maternal instincts and rarely abandon a lamb. Some breeds are known for large numbers of offspring each year. They tend to have more problems raising the lambs themselves, with shortage of milk and apathy toward the big family, but are good for production of both milk and lambs for meat. The various breeds of sheep all have a set of attributes and drawbacks, so diligent study should be done before deciding on a breed to raise or cross-breed.

One of the most important choices a person must make is the Ram (or Rams) that will be used to produce next years’ crop of lambs. I was guided into purchasing a well-bred Suffolk ram, and I am happy for that guidance. My lambs this year are bigger and growing faster than the ones from the Border Cheviot ram last year. The Suffolk ram is also quite docile and not as aggressive as other rams I have seen. Although he does challenge me from time to time, he responds well to reprimand and he has not attacked me. The biggest challenge with rams is to make sure they do not hit you from behind. They wait for an opportunity, because they enjoy smacking other animals with their heads. I treat my ram cautiously because I know he could become quite dangerous, if not kept in check. I do not pet him on the head and I keep the relationship somewhat distant. Rams feel that friendship involves head-butting. The ram determines not only the type of lambs you will get, but also their personality and the mood of the flock.

My first major lesson in being a shepherd came when my costly young ram started looking depressed. He went off alone and lied under a tree for a day. I figured I would keep an eye on him and hope he was better soon. He went downhill fast. By the time I got him to the veterinarian, it was discovered that he had a massive infestation of worms. When I asked if they had seen one this bad before, the veterinarian replied, “not in a living sheep.” He died shortly thereafter and I spent the evening digging a deep hole with a shovel. That was when I became educated on the most deadly threat to sheep – parasites.

There are a number of worms that will infest sheep. Roundworms are the most common infestation, and the culprit in my lamb loss. Initially, I used the chemical wormer, sold to me by the veterinarian. But I wanted to find a naturally sustainable way to manage this problem. The worm infestation runs in a cycle. Millions of eggs are passed in the feces of the sheep, later hatching and becoming worms that are ingested. My first strategy is to encourage my chickens to spend more time in the field, feeding on the eggs and worms. To do this, I changed their grain feeding pattern. I only feed a small amount of grain in the evening before they roost so they forage during the day instead of waiting around for food. But this will only help slow down the cycle.

The second part of my strategy has been the use of garlic juice. Initially, I was using powdered garlic in their grain. I had the veterinarian test a sample of feces from the sheep and it was found that there was a significant population of worms. It was recommended that I use the chemical worming solution immediately. I did a little reading and decided to hold off on the chemical solution. I bought a large quantity of whole garlic and put it through my juicer. I stirred the juice into the grain and fed it to the sheep. I repeated the treatment a week later, and then had another test done. The worm population had decreased, but there were still worms. So I continued with treatments for another month and tested again. Although still present, the number of worm eggs in the feces has diminished to a point that is not considered dangerous and chemical treatment is no longer being recommended.

Another type of worm of particular concern, especially for dog owners, is the tapeworm. It can be transmitted to dogs through ingestion of feces or meat. However, natural treatment for this type of worm turns out to be much less complicated. I have been mixing a couple of tablespoons of food grade diatomaceous earth with the sheep salt, and tests have found no presence of tapeworms. I purchased a 50 lb. bag of this miracle solution at Amazon.com for an affordable price. A little diatomaceous earth goes a long way and it has many uses.

In addition to garlic, I have found apple cider vinegar to be of use in both controlling worms and aiding in the overall health of my sheep. I add several cups of vinegar to their water from time to time. Runny noses dry up and the sheep look healthier. The health benefits of vinegar for sheep, chickens, and even humans, are numerous. I use vinegar regularly for all of my animals. Sheep, like most animals dependent on our chemical treated culture, have a number of health hazards that are important to know how to treat. I am learning daily and I imagine the learning will continue as long as I have sheep. My friend, who has commercially raised sheep for 30 years, says she still learns something new every day. She recommended a book that is no longer in print, but I was able to buy it used on Amazon.com: A Practical Guide To Sheep Disease Management, by Norman Gates.

Sheep are more economical with feed than many other four-legged creatures. However, quality of feed is very important for sheep. I have a high quality pasture grass with gravity flow irrigation. My sheep get very upset when I flood irrigate each week, but it creates a healthy growth of grassy nutrition. During the winter months, I feed premium alfalfa hay. When ewes are pregnant, the size of their stomach can be reduced by the space needed for the growing lambs. This can cause severe health problems, if proper nutrition is not provided. I grain my ewes daily during the last few months of pregnancy. A friend told me of her first year raising sheep wherein she lost more than half of her ewes due to lack of nutrition during pregnancy. It has crossed my mind how difficult it would be to sustain any of these creatures without the hay and grain so readily available in today’s world. But it was accomplished during Bible times, so I’m sure it could be done again.

Lambing can be a stressful time for both the sheep and the shepherd. Depending on when they are bred, sheep tend to lamb between February and April. In many parts of the country, this is a cold, blustery time of year. Some sheep are naturally good at pushing out healthy lambs, while others are going to need help. I am not going to cover all of the things that can go wrong, because that would be an article in and of itself. However, I am going to say that, from what I have learned, being ready to take a gloved hand and feel around inside a sheep is part of the business. And I say “gloved hand” because, I am told there that as a woman, there are diseases which I can get from sheep without the use of gloves during birthing. Some breeds of sheep are natural with the lambing process and some will require a lot of help. I have had to “pull” two lambs this year from first year ewes that had trouble. It was a trying, but worthwhile experience.

Lambs need to nurse within the first hour of being born, or things can go sideways. If a lamb has not nursed properly, its mouth will go cold. This means the lamb is in trouble. Colostrum needs to be given to the lamb quickly to avoid death. The easier way to avoid this scenario is to hold the sheep and try to get the lamb nursing. Lambs need special treatment for the first 10 days of their lives, so separate enclosures with good shelter is advised. I had two pens with huts I purchased used from another breeder. It worked well for my six ewes. The new lambs should have their umbilical cords treated with iodine until they dry. They will also need to monitored carefully to make sure they are nursing properly and staying healthy. Books have been helpful, but I have found there is almost no better resource than a person who has spent a number of years raising sheep and is willing to share knowledge.

Lambs are also mentally weak. They will literally lay down and die if they think things are bad. My veterinarian put it this way, “remember the four S’s of sheep raising: Sick Sheep Seldom Survive.” And most of the time, the ones that sick are the lambs. Recently, one of my lambs was somehow interpreted by my guard dogs to be a buddy that wanted to wrestle. Although there was no blood or obvious physical injury, the lamb thought this was the end of his life and just gave up. His neck seemed to have had some sort of whip-lash type injury from the incident, but he was otherwise healthy. I spent a hectic week trying to keep him alive and convince him to nurse again. My secret weapon turned out to be a mixture of water, honey, egg yolk and garlic juice, plunged down him from a syringe. He perks up substantially after a half cup of the concoction. However, without the intense care, he would still have given up at times because his neck hurt.

Predators are another big threat to lambs and sheep. I have my acreage surrounded with near-predator-proof fencing. I have watched coyotes and foxes stand at the fence and gaze hungrily at my animals. They have only a few places where they can get in around my gate, with some effort. And when they do get in, I have two 120 pound. German Shepherd guard dogs who will try to kill them. So predators are, for the most part, not much of a problem. However, in a situation less secured, there are dogs (such as the Great Pyrenees) who are capable of killing even a wolf to protect the sheep. Devising a predator plan is a very important part of a sheep operation.

Setting up my operation has been a somewhat costly venture, but I have found some significant tax advantages in doing so. Because I am raising livestock for a profit, the costs of setting up the pastures, fences, facilities, and purchasing of the initial stock has provided a significant tax deduction for several years. I will probably make a “profit” on my sale of stock this year and have some tax liability. But, so far, the benefits of the learning and the improvements to my small farm have proven to be a good move for taxes.

Lamb is a sheep of less than a year old. Lamb is considered to have a more “mild” flavor than mutton, which is the meat of a grown sheep. I “culled” a problem ewe last fall, by adding her to the butcher list. The “lamburger” and meat from the mutton sheep has been as popular with my customers as the lamb. My favorite ingredient for everything I cook with lamb is rosemary. Rosemary seems to sweeten and enhance the flavors, so I raise several rosemary plants in my kitchen and use it regularly. I recently marinated a leg of lamb in my sauce for 24 hours before roasting it on the barbeque grill, with terrific results. I often use the marinate sauce as a base for gravy. I have received some rave reviews from friends and family.

Rosemary Marinade Sauce
Combine:
½ cup olive oil
¼ cup dry red wine
¼ cup fresh rosemary leaves, minced
¼ cup fresh garlic, minced
1 tsp salt
½ tsp pepper

Preparing to live without modern conveniences is a lifestyle. I have made many sacrifices to live in my homestead. And raising animals can be very challenging while holding down full time employment. I imagine the thousands of years of history when human survival hinged on a herd of sheep that were watched over while they grazed on the hillside. The stories of the wolves and the battles to keep the sheep safe have become more meaningful for me. I have fortified my little farm to resist threats, both four-legged and two-legged. I believe long-term survival could mean that protecting a flock of sheep and a homestead might include dealing with people who are “bugging out” and need to be sent down the road. I strongly urge people to change their way of living now and move to a sustainable lifestyle.

Saturday, May 5, 2012

More city residents look to raise chickens


by Laura Millsaps, Ames Tribune
AMES, Iowa (WTW) — They have elegant, even royal-sounding names: Buff Orpington, Barred Plymouth Rock, Blue Lace Wyandotte.

Not bad for a flock of chickens pecking and strutting their way across the lawn in Ames resident Andy Larson's backyard. He and his wife, Katie, have been keeping chickens for four years.

"I grew up on a farm in northwest Illinois that was all dairy cattle and barn cats," Andy Larson said. "I wanted to branch out and learn caring for another kind of livestock. They are my little experiment."
Michelle Wilder, another Ames resident, keeps chickens as well, two hens named Coco and Ursula, which she refers to as "her girls."

"We've been doing it for a year now," Wilder said. "I had been thinking about it for quite a while as part of growing our own food. We also keep a vegetable garden, and I thought this would be a good extension of that effort. I grew up with grandparents who had chickens, and I remember racing to the chicken house to see if there were eggs. I wanted my own kids to have the same experience I had."

Wilder and Larson are part of a growing trend across the nation and state for keeping poultry in town.
In Iowa, Cedar Rapids went "pro-chicken" last year, and the issue is expected to go before the Iowa City City Council soon, with urban chicken advocates collecting names for a petition to change a local zoning law.
"While I sporadically get contacts from people about changing laws in their community, the amount of inquiry I've had from urban owners had definitely increased in the last few years," said Darrell Trampel, poultry veterinarian for Iowa State University Extension. "They are either pursuing it as a hobby. or are interested in organic food or food self-sufficiency."

Trampel said that though organically home-raised birds may provide assurance about food sources, research debunks the idea that they are nutritionally superior or safer for consumption.
"Nutritionally, they are really not significantly different than commercially produced eggs," he said. "As for salmonella, it is generally carried into the coop by mice, and that can happen just as easily in the backyard coop as it can the large producer. What matters is quality of livestock care."

A recent consumer study by Tractor Supply Company conducted in partnership with American Livestock Breeds Conservancy (ALBC) found that while only 3 percent of U.S. households own chickens, the level of interest in chicken ownership indicated among non-owners could potentially double ownership levels in the next year.

In Ames, keeping chickens is legal, though the city's code doesn't specifically say so. And while even roosters are not banned as they are in other city's zoning laws, Judy Parks of the Ames City Attorney's Office said they are effectively discouraged by the regulation of animal noise in the part of the city code that requires certain standards of care and control.

"For the city's part, until it would become problematic, this city has been able to avoid the need for rooster regulation," said Parks, an assistant city attorney.

Other code requirements cover the definition of adequate shelter and sanitation. Parks said there is no way to know the exact number of households keeping backyard poultry as the city has no requirement for permits.

Raising chickens to supplement one's food supply, however, is a lot bigger investment than picking up a few tomato plants, both experts and keepers caution.

"If you think you're going to save money raising your own poultry, you're mistaken," Larson said. "You're going to be in several hundred dollars for a coop and fencing, the cost of feed and of course your time horsing around with caring for them, though that's mostly minimal. I'd estimate my eggs cost about $3 per dozen to produce."

It can be a learning process, too. Both Larson and Wilder have had chickens fall victim to raccoons and weasels, even in town, and Wilder is trying to decide what to do with hens that are too old to lay eggs.
"I've butchered poultry before, but it's a messy, elaborate process, and one I'm not enthused about doing just for a few birds," Wilder said. "So there are a few free-loaders in my coop right now."
Wilder recommends researching hen house construction thoroughly before beginning.

"Ours is sort of a work in progress," she said. "It took a while to learn what works and what's most convenient to care for them. Get online and research different designs and read up. There's do-it-yourself plans or pre-fabricated ones, and lots to choose from."

Trampel also encourages lots of research before buying animals.
"I've had people misunderstand, believing they could feed their chickens only table scraps, when that is not a healthy, complete diet for the birds," he said. "They need a good-quality, prepared commercial feed. I've also had hobbyists call me wondering why their chickens' feet and combs were turning black, without realizing that it was frostbite. Poultry in Iowa needs a heat source to survive the winter."
Despite the investment, Larson said the birds provide entertainment as well.

"There's definitely a social order to the hen house, and it's interesting to watch it unfold," he said. "And my daughter, Ava (18 months), is enthralled by them. She chases the chickens and our beagle, Paisley, chases her, and it's just one big crazy circle."

My grand daughters first goats...


We have names (they changed about 5x)

Say hello to our little friends!

Katie is so excited  with her Nubian friend. "Milo" and Abby has her little pygmy "Pip"and the goats know who's their person. Pip would not let anyone but Abby, touch him. She could touch him, move him, run with him, whatever. He followed her everywhere. They are both bite sized so they hit it off!



Click pic for video

We bought a Nubian goat this morning and we found him a buddy pygmy goat. I have always wanted a pygmy goat! This Nubian is really neat though. I never knew goats were so much fun! Katie is beside herself!The Nubian just follows the girls everywhere they thought that was the greatest thing ever! Lucy got along with it too. The pygmy thinks Lucy is a goat too and tries to play with her. Lucy is not such a fan of that. She's top dog you know. The little pygmy  is skittish still but warming up to us nicely. It runs so funny with it's tiny little legs.

Thursday, May 3, 2012

5 Healthy, Homemade Dog Treat Recipes

Pampering your pet can be healthy with these healthy, homemade dog treats.

By Leah Zerbe 


Save money and your dog's health with these preservative-free, natural treats.
More and more Americans are tuning in to the food system, trying to avoid nasty ingredients like artificial ingredients. And increasingly, people are looking harder at what's best for their four-legged family members, too.

Healthy dog treats are a great starting point because you can easily whip up good-for-Fido treats in your kitchen. While these recipes are intended for preparation in a food dehydrator, which can help retain treats more nutrients, you can use your oven set on a low temperature and get a similar dehydrating effect.
Use healthy, fresh, whole ingredients to create healthy dog snacks free of additives and preservatives using these recipes from Excalibur Dehydrators.

Chicken Jerky Strips
These all-natural chicken jerky strips make the perfect snack for your dog, but they're not just for canines—you can eat them yourself! To make processing easier, pop the meat into the freezer 15 minutes before slicing it, and slice it thin!

Ingredients:
1½ pounds boneless, skinless chicken breast tenders, sliced into strips about ¼ to 1/8 inch thick
½ cup vegetable oil
1 Tablespoon salt
Dog-friendly seasonings, such as parsley, rosemary, and sage
Directions:
Rinse off chicken breast and remove any fat. Slice the chicken with the grain. Next, coat the chicken slices with your dog-friendly seasonings.

Place the chicken breast strips in an even layer across the entire the tray, leaving an equal amount of space between pieces and making sure that they do not touch each other. This is so air can flow between them while they are drying out, which helps dehydrate them.

Once the strips are all set out, place the trays in the food dehydrator, turn it on, and set the temperature for 140 degrees. It will probably take between 3 and 12 hours for the chicken to fully dry, depending on how thick you cut your slices and the exact temperature of your food dehydrator. Check the strips once every hour after the first hour. To do that, simply open up the tray and take one slice out; cut it open with a sharp knife and examine the inside. You should see no moisture at all, and if it is properly dried, the chicken will have the same color throughout. If it is not finished, put it back in for another hour. Once it gets close, start checking once every half hour.

(In an oven, bake the chicken strips at 200 degrees for approximately 2 hours.)
Once your chicken jerky is done, store it in sealed containers; zip-locking bags work great for this. Write the date you made it on them. You can also store the finished product in the refrigerator for an even longer shelf life. There, you're done. Enjoy your healthy snacks!

Vegetarian Treats
Substitute just about any fruit or vegetable in this great vegetarian dog-treat recipe to add variety. This recipe uses an egg as a binding agent, but if you want to make these treats vegan, just mix the dough longer and omit the egg.

Ingredients:
2½ cups flour
¾ cup dry milk powder
½ cup vegetable oil
2 Tablespoons brown sugar
2 vegetable bouillon cubes, dissolved in ¾ cup boiling water
½ cup carrots, green beans, apples, or blueberries
1 egg (optional)

Directions:
In a large bowl, mix all ingredients and form into a ball. On a flour-dusted cutting board, roll out the dough to about ¼-inch thick.
Cut with bone-shaped cookie cutter or any cutter shape your pet will like.
Dehydrate at the highest setting—145 to 155 degrees—until done, approximately 6 to 8 hours.
These treats should be very dry, so add time as necessary.
 
Sunflower Treats
A popular treat for horses, your dog and cat can enjoy these, too!

Ingredients:
¼ cup sunflower seeds
2 cups flour
½ cup chopped apples
¼ cup carrots, peas, or other vegetables
¼ cup oats, ground to a powder
1 cup peanut butter
1 cup rolled oats
1 cup molasses

Directions:
Combine all ingredients but molasses in a large bowl; add molasses and work in until dough is stiff. Additional oats may be added to make the dough stiff.
Roll out dough and cut into shapes or squares
Dehydrate at the highest setting—145 to 155 degrees—until done, for approximately 4 hours.
These treats should be very dry, so add time as necessary.

Sweet Potato Dog Chews
This super-simple chewy dog treat is packed full of vitamins!

Ingredients:
2 to 3 organic sweet potatoes

Directions:
Thoroughly wash and peel sweet potatoes. Slice the sweet potato into ¼-inch slices. You can also cut down the middle lengthwise and slice into ¼-inch strips.
Dehydrate at the highest setting—145 to 155 degrees—until done, about 6 to 8 hours for a chewy texture.
For crunchier treats, dehydrate longer until they have the consistency you like.

Peanut Butter Dog Biscuits
A perfect protein-packed snack your dog absolutely will not refuse!

Ingredients:
1½ cups water
½ cup oil
3 Tablespoons natural peanut butter
2 teaspoons vanilla
2 cups whole wheat flour
½ cup cornmeal
½ cup oats
¼ cup Honey Crunch Wheat Germ

Directions:
In a large bowl, combine flour, cornmeal, oats, and wheat germ. Stir in oil, peanut butter, vanilla, and water.
Knead till smooth, adding more flour or water as needed. Roll out the dough to about ¼ inch thick.
Shape into bars or cut with bone-shaped cookie cutter or any cutter shape your pet will enjoy.
Dehydrate at the highest setting—145 to 155 degrees—until done, about 6 to 8 hours.

These treats should be very dry, so add time as necessary.

Tuesday, May 1, 2012

Other Uses For Chickens (Beyond Meat and Eggs)

 I love this Article, Sooo True...  SRN
Everyone knows the primary uses for a chicken- delicious, delicious meat and eggs. But chickens are far more than just food-producing machines. They have many additional talents of use to their owners. Below are some of the best alternative benefits of owning chickens.

Bug Control

Stink bugs were first seen in the United States over ten years ago in Allentown, PA. Living a mere fifteen minutes from their origin point, you can imagine the wave of bugs that sweep through our property every year. They are pernicious little things that will sneak into your house and any other sheltered spot to hide through the winter. Killing them, or frightening them, causes them to release a noxious odor that attracts even more stink bugs.
And you know who just love to gobble them up whole? My chickens. When they get let out of the coop to free range, they make a beeline for the house and start to pick them right off the walls. Chickens are always hungry and adore bugs. They're a great natural pest control, eliminating bugs without the use of dangerous chemicals.

Weed Control

As stated previously, chickens are always hungry. When they can't get bugs, they settle for plants. Now, a small flock like mine will not make a sizeable dent on a large property's weeds. But if you have a backyard coop, they love to take out new shoots as weeds grow. The area around my girls' coop is prone to poison ivy. They usually ignore the mature plants, but new leaves get snipped off quickly. Given enough time, a flock will strip a patch of land of everything, usually leaving the grass for last. If you have a mobile chicken tractor, it's an easy way to clear land for a garden.

Fertilizer

Since chickens eat a lot, it's no surprise that they poop a lot as well. And, lucky for you, chicken poop happens to be worth its weight in gold to gardeners. Don't put your chicken's leavings directly on the garden. Instead, start a compost heap. Every time you remove the shavings in your coop, put them on the heap and let them sit for a few months. Soon, you'll have a powerhouse fertilizer to amend your soil with. The shavings and the manure combine to provide everything your fertilizer needs, although you can certainly add other things like your left over egg shells to the mix.

Pets

Did you know you can teach a chicken tricks? They are not as attuned to humans as cats or dogs, but chickens are a domesticated animal reliant on humans for survival. If handled often and gently as chicks, they can grow into very friendly adults who enjoy interacting with their humans. Of my five, I have one that I would consider truly friendly, three who seem to mostly be in it for the food, and one who is skittish of humans. All of them, of course, will follow me around like a shadow if they think I have a tasty treat for them. I never thought of chickens as affectionate or complex animals before I had them, but now I see them as much more than utilitarian animals.
All of these traits are what makes chickens essential to those striving for self-sufficiency. More than any other domesticated animal, they provide the greatest amount of services for the least amount of upkeep. They are, truly, the most useful animal you could own.

Wednesday, April 25, 2012

Homemade Dog Food

Homemade Dog Food That is Healthy and Nutritious

Homemade Dog Food That is Healthy and Nutritious


Thank you for stopping in and checking out my site. My goal is to help you feed your dog healthy, nutritious homemade dog food. The best dog food you make right in your kitchen. All the dog food ingredients are readily available in your local grocery store. The dog food recipes are easy to follow and simple to make. Most importantly your dog will thrive on them and love the way they taste.

Easy Cooked Dog Food Recipe 

 (Click on the pic below for a how to Video)

 http://youtu.be/axU6JbEzQ4k

This is my first dog food recipe video. I hope you like it. My goal is to have a video for each dog food recipe. Happy viewing:)

Thank you to:  http://homemadedogfood.com/

Tuesday, April 24, 2012

How to Raise Milk Sheep

From Lambing to Sheep Milk Production

A feedback response covering the basics of raising and caring for milk sheep, including feeding and milking, pregnancy and lambing.
by:Thomas Paine Ditto Works
The amazing thing to us is that sheep's milk is so seldom used in the United States. It's excellent in quality, mild in flavor (somewhere between cow's and goat's milk, with less aroma than the latter) and is produced in generous quantity.
ILLUSTRATION: K. HOLMES
Answering this appeal about raising milk sheep both gives me a chance to play "know-it-all" and to tell you that Anastasia, our canny old Suffolk ewe, has — once again — saved herself from a mutton chop finale, this time by feigning pregnancy until she'd captivated the hearts of her new patrons, T. and J. We can only smile at Anastasia's success since she taught us almost all we know about sheep — including how to handle ewes during pregnancy and lambing, and about the joys of milking sheep and drinking sheep milk. Bruce Lansdale of the American Farm School in Salonica, Greece, taught us the rest. Around the Mediterranean, sheep's milk is more highly prized than the cow's product and is the fourth crop (after wool, mutton and lambs) of this docile ruminant.

I don't know which breeds of the animal make the best milkers, although around the Mediterranean basin Barbary sheep are held in high esteem. When selecting a type, you probably should consider your location (environment, altitude and latitude), the breed's sheep ratio and its mothering qualities. We tend to think that sheep with a proven tendency to raise their lambs should be given the edge in the selection process. Livestock books can tell you which domesticated breeds in this country make the best mothers.

Any sheep can be a milk sheep — provided that it's female, has recently had a baby and has been trained to supply milk at the convenience of a human rather than at the demand of the weanling. As with other mammals, a great deal depends on getting the ewe to "let down" her milk. She may be a good producer, but the skill of her owner is what relaxes her and gets the white nectar into the pail. This requires both authoritative handling and a stanchion at which the sheep learns to feed while being milked.

The Stanchion

Since sheep are sometimes temperamental, you should train your ewes to feed at the stanchion even before they lamb so they'll get used to the device. Remember that the critters always seek out the highest ground for rest and sleep; if you place the "milking parlor" on a rise, your sheep will trot right home to it at the end of the day. And never use the milking stanchion to immobilize the ewes when you shear them or pare their hoofs. Such carelessness can make your sheep associate the stand with unpleasantness, and they'll refuse to let down their milk when near it.

During pregnancy, the ewe's bag becomes larger and wool-covered, and the lady resembles a ram from the rear, discouraging aggressive behavior from any males in your flock. A ewe's udder will become obviously swollen shortly before delivery and — if it becomes engorged with milk — will need to be treated with bag balm and massaged. This congestion might happen often if the animal is being overfed, particularly with grain. The sheep is what is called an "efficient converter" of grain into milk, but overfeeding a ewe during pregnancy can cause engorgement and a fat fetus, resulting in a more difficult birth.
The udder of a breeding ewe is as large as that of a goat, though it appears to be smaller because of the sheep's stocky anatomy, bulky fleece and shorter teat. Because of the lanolin which keeps the wool waterproof, sheep tend to stay oily and collect dirt. All the fleece around the bag and dock should be clipped before lambing. This one shearing will probably keep the wool short enough for milking throughout the five-plus months a ewe is productive.

Lambs

A newborn lamb, like baby goats and cows, will butt mamma's bag as it looks for milk, apparently stimulating the ewe to let down the liquid. The teat is just a funnel. Lambs may be weaned to reconstituted cow's milk from a weaning bottle or bucket at about three weeks of age. (Not all sources concur that using cow's milk is a safe method for weaning lambs. Read another opinion in More About Milk Sheep.) They must always be allowed to have the colostrum  — or first milk — though, because it is rich in protein and provides them with antibodies and other safeguards. If you're unlucky enough to have a ewe that rejects her newborn, you must extract the colostrum by hand and feed it to the lamb yourself, by force if necessary.

Milking Ewes

Before milking a ewe, you should examine the udder for flaws — a missing teat from careless shearing, sore or extra teats (sheep usually have two and sometimes three or four). Because of an interesting camouflage of mutton anatomy — the udder is normally invisible when the sheep is standing — you will have to tip the ewe into a sitting position to examine her bag. Treat a lumpy, swollen or scratched udder with bag balm or hot compresses.

The udder should be washed very carefully with soap and warm water before milking. And — if you're up to crooning a few stanzas of "Home on the Range" or whatever — you'll find that sheep are so responsive to music it can be a great boon in conditioning them to being milked.

With all this in mind, you're ready to anchor a bucket with your feet and sit on a stool beside your ewe. It takes about 20 minutes to milk a sheep, so make yourself comfortable unless you want a tired back. Use a strainer or filter to keep dust from falling into the pail.

Because the teats of the ewe are shorter than those of cows or goats, some practice is required to compress the areola at the base of the teat where it meets the bag. Simply pulling on the teat will yield little or no milk, and will annoy or even hurt the animal. The areolae feel lumpy and are found in a circle in the gland just above the teat. Massage the bag while you're getting the feel of things.
Other "rules" are similar to the ones followed in milking cows or goats. (In some parts of the world, in fact, there is no distinction made in treatment of goats and sheep because they are such near relatives.) If the ewe crouches, grab the milk bucket and resume milking only after she has finished relieving herself. A ewe will urinate both when she's nervous and relaxed. If you're handling her right, she's going to be relaxed — so be alert! When you've got a full bucket of milk, chill the fluid immediately, and pasteurize it if you like.
The milking ewe must be thoroughly stripped out twice a day in order to keep up her production after her newborn lamb is weaned. The mother should also receive a dietary supplement such as alfalfa hay, calf's manna or grain with molasses to keep her healthy through the next five months. Discontinue milking at least two weeks before breeding in the fall, but continue the rich diet. Remember to taper off the frequency of milking gradually, and keep watch for signs of udder engorgement. Congestion during this period requires massage with bag balm — and, perhaps, the withholding of drinking water if the weather isn't too warm.

Is That ta Ewe, Mamma?" Yea-a-a-a

The amazing thing to us is that sheep's milk is so seldom used in the United States. It's excellent in quality, mild in flavor (somewhere between cow's and goat's milk, with less aroma than the latter) and is produced in generous quantity. Furthermore, woollies often drop and nourish twins and triplets which double their weight — from 10 or 12 to 20 or 24 pounds — when fed on milk alone. The best Greek feta and kasseri cheeses are made from sheep's milk, and yogurt from ewe's milk is not only delicious but thick enough to slice with a knife. It is no surprise that the docile sheep — with its four-crop plenitude — represents peace, prosperity and well-being to Mediterranean farmers.

 MOTHER EARTH NEWS